My final ryokan of the trip is Tawaraya in Kyoto. It’s considered one of the best so I was really curious how it would measure up to Gora Kadan. It’s a fairly exclusive property in that there is no way to book it online. You literally have to call. Depending on your time zone, you will have to stay up like buying Ghibli Museum tickets. They will put you through to Yoko-san who speaks really good English.
The property is the oldest ryokan of the four and like Asadaya, it does not have an onsen. I was worried about heating due to its old age and the fact that Japanese houses have notoriously bad insulation but it was not an issue. Everything functioned perfectly and the traditional interior did not feel dated. I believe some reviews complained about this but I didn’t believe there was any detriment. In fact, it added to the character for me.
I stayed in room Shorai with magnificent views of the garden. The room was plenty big just for myself. Similar to Asadaya, the foyer branches into two directions. The right takes you to the bath area with vanity, shower and cypress tub. The left lies the living/sleeping space, a kotatsu like space, all of which faces the garden.
Unfortunately, I ruined my kaiseki dinner. Earlier I had visited the depachika of Daimaru and overindulged on sweets. I had to stop half way and went on a walk instead. In typical excellent Japanese hospitality, upon my request the staff held the food until my return which they should not have. For one, I noticed ants when I returned. For another, I was out longer than intended and it got rather late. This meant the manager on duty had to clear the table since my attendant already left for the night. I felt bad.
What sets Tawaraya apart from the rest is their immense attention to detail. Every single item is branded. From the throw to the soap to the socks. Yes, they have their own soap and it’s divine. It’s the only soap I took home all trip. And they’re aware and proud of it because they left signs stating that guests are welcome to take amenities home. They also included a branded postcard and envelope. Upon asking them to ship my luggage, I discovered they even have branded tags with Tawaraya on it!
Some may find all of this tacky but I believe they’re making a statement on the quality of their brand. I was actually disappointed that the mothballs attached to each hanger were not branded. The hangers themselves are. There’s one more attention to detail I will get to shortly.
The ryokan includes a library, a very intimate sitting room for two, and a shop. There are several gardens on the property and the featured one changes depending on the season I believe.
At checkout, they bring me my shoes and I encounter a pleasant surprise as I put them on. They were heated. I have never stepped into warmed shoes and that cozy sensation is simply bliss. I will definitely be back.
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